Frequently Asked Questions
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Here are some of the questions with answers we have been asked in the past.
Q . I am about to remodel an upstairs bathroom, approx 7 by 8 feet. My wife wants marble tile, and I would like to install underfloor radiant heating under the tile. The bathroom is above the front porch, so the bathroom floor is essentially an exterior wall, and can get quite cold. The floor is on wood joists.
I was thinking about putting a reflective mylar film down, as these are quite effective at containing reflecting heat, and this would minimise heat loss through the floor to the porch below. Above the mylar I would put fibreglass batt insulation, and above that the radiant heater, just below the subfloor.
Can you comment on this concept?
A . The floor area is very small and underfloor heating (Wet plated system) will give up to 70watts per metre Sq. This may not be enough to overcome the heat loss. Think about your wants for this area, is it Room Heating or Floor warming. Are you fitting a towel Rail ? if so could it supply some heat as well.
Q . I see on the internet that there are several underfloor heating products. Several use polyethylene tubing. Some use extrude aluminium panels with integral water circulation tubes. Others are thin-film electric heating elements. What approach is best in your experience?
A . It depends on the floor construction ---See our section on Floor types
Q . If I go with a hot water design, can I simply use 15 mm copper tubing in a serpentine pattern? Properly soldered, it should never leak. (The poly tubing sellers claim a leak-free advantage for their product, implying that jointed tubing will leak.)
A . Yes you could fit copper tube. BUT it would be easier and quicker to fit the flexable oxygen barrier tube (Made to fit in the metal plates) and you dont get the 10 year garantee with copper.
Q . I see in your controls section that water temperature must be regulated with a mixing valve. Do you have additional information on this valve? Obviously I would not install the valve underfloor, as it must be accessible for maintenance. All valves will eventually fail or leak.
A . Sometimes called a blending valve (like an automatic shower mixing valve) (it is a 3 port mechanical valve) The idea.. hot water 80c from the boiler mixes with some of the cooler underfloor return water to produce a constant (MAX 55C) temperature for the underfloor circuit.
Q . I have just had my plans approved by Dartford Borough Council after 3 years of refusals and looking to start building by the end of March 2000. I'm currently contemplating which type of heating system to use either the conventional radiator system which is tried and tested, or under-floor heating which I would prefer. I don't know anyone with this type of heating and have not found any reports on its merits or dislikes. Maybe you can help?
A . If you look at the History of underfloor heating you need to go back to Roman times. Although these systems were used in bathing areas the principle is the same. Modern control technoligy now gives the ability to control the underfloor heating with other parts of the system (Towel Rails, Hot water generation and Radiators) which means it can be used in almost any type of building (or part of) and with any type of heat source.
It saves about 20% of the Gas used against a Radiator system. It gives you access to all of your wall space (No Radiators) and it supplies a heat pattern that suits the body better than radiator heating.
Finally rooms with UFH normally have a set temperature of 2 degrees lower than radiator heated rooms because the heat is more even and comes up through the body rather than from the edge of the room.